![change old craftsman table saw blade change old craftsman table saw blade](https://data2.manualslib.com/first-image/i10/50/4951/495046/craftsman-table-saw.png)
I also had to redo the knob on the end of the bolt. The bolt pushes up against a Jazzmaster style control plate to give it something sturdy to push against other than the plywood. All I want is to be able to lock it down and be confident that it is parallel to the miter slot every time. I made a C clamp which has a T nut and a bolt to push the fence against the plywood rail. I put a bit of melamine particle board for the face. Then I used plywood to make a big T square. First I removed the front rail and put in its place a plywood block instead. It was a bit wobbly and capable of being locked down firmly, yet out of square. Overall though the fence was problematic. There is a tension screw under the handle which can set how hard the handle pulls against that back hook. Then there is a little hook at the back end which pulls against the rear table top. It runs along a metal bar on the front which it locks onto. My first order of business was the fence. I believed I would need to put some elbow grease into getting it tuned up, but I felt it could pretty quickly surpass the alternatives. Cast iron top with a belt driven motor for 1/3 the price seemed like a good deal to me. So when I saw this bad boy I was pretty pleased. I did some research and was led to believe that the modern $150 entry level table saws aren't anything special. Haven't really tried any beefy hardwood yet.įor context, this is my first table saw. I was able to cut 2x4's or plywood easily. I currently have it fit with a 7 1/4" blade, but I believe it could go up to 8". It has a belt driven motor that hangs off the back with a Westinghouse label. Central Specialty Division in Michigan, USA. Some research has led me to believe it is possibly from the 1960's and was made by King-Seeley Corp. Says Craftsman on the front with a model number on the back of 103.21041. I bought it in Summer 2017 on Craigslist for $50. Remove the outer washer and set it with the bolt.I have an old table saw that I'm bringing back to life, and I wanted to document, share, and possibly enlist some help in the process. If you find that the bolt is not loosening, but rather turning the motor while the blade remains secure, give the wrench a tap or a quick snap to break the bolt free. The second way is to clamp the blade in place with some Vice-grips or other lockable pliers while loosening the bolt. The first is to raise the base plate so that some of the teeth of the blade can be pressed into a piece of wood or work table. While pressing down on the saw and holding it in place, follow the steps above to loosen the bolt. Some older circular saws do not have a blade lock or shaft lock. There are two ways to hold the blade in place while loosening the bolt. Loosen the bolt in the same direction as the arrow. Usually, on a corded right-hand circular saw, the bolt will loosen counterclockwise. A left-hand saw will loosen clockwise. You can also look for the arrow on the upper or lower blade guard for the blade rotation. The bolt will loosen in the same direction the blade rotates when in use. This is the biggest question most people have because on circular saws the old lefty-loosey, righty-tighty rule doesn’t always apply.